Places

Top 2 Places to Tan in Dubrovnik

I grew up in the south-west of Malaysia, where the weather is scorching hot and sultry all year round. Tanning is almost impossible, let alone common. Unlike in England, where the slightest ray of sunshine can drive a whole family out to sunbathe in the garden, people in my town (or indeed across much of Asia) would use umbrellas on sunny days, wear thick layers of sunscreen, or do anything they possibly can to escape the sun.

I really wasn’t joking.

The idea of becoming bronzed or tawny is, to many, rather horrifying; on the contrary, fair skin is often associated with wealth and beauty. Some argue that this is simply institutional racism — a result of “white oppression”. Perhaps that is partly true. But growing up in tropical South-East Asia, having pale skin historically meant one could afford to stay indoors and not work under the sun to support the family — a cultural belief which, to me, feels meaningful and representative of my roots and origins.

Nonetheless, I have to admit that I wasn’t entirely unmoved by the sight of Brazilian models looking golden and sun-kissed. I am one of those people naturally blessed with fair skin (though not quite a blessing if you factor in the allergies and irritating sensitivity that come with it). Getting a tan does not come easily to me, so I had never really seen myself tanned. This time in Dubrovnik, however, J and I were determined to return with that soft, bronzed glow.

By chance, we stumbled upon two amazing spots that I would love to share with you today!

1. EastWest Beach Club

After exiting Ploče Gate in the Old Town, we decided to keep walking for a few minutes. And guess what?


…we were soon greeted by a rather alluring sight.

The first word that comes to mind for EastWest is chic. Très chic. Fashionable, stylish, private, luxurious, hip and upbeat — the kind of place that immediately conjures up images of a young, good-looking crowd, bikinis, cocktails and Pitbull playing at full blast. Energetic. International. A party.

EW is divided into three parts — a beach, a restaurant and a nightclub. Unlike most Mediterranean shores, which are rocky and pebbly, EW boasts a sandy beach, lined with rows of chaise longues and a few baldachins. You can sip cocktails, enjoy a massage, or even make a grand arrival at their private pier by boat.

J and I were there for two days — two wicked days. We would pack large bottles of water, sunscreen, towels, some dried figs and fresh cherries, then lounge by the beach watching time pass us by in the form of topless (wo)men and gambolling teens.

As the sun set around six, the crowd began to thin, giving EW a brief pause before it opened its arms to glamorous, eager clubbers — who, by the way, often include celebrities and models.

Address: Frana Supila 10/B, 20000 Dubrovnik, Croatia.

2. Buza Bar

I gave my bucket list a big tick when we stumbled across Buža Bar — a bar perched on the cliffs right above the sea.

With no prior research, we spotted Buža by chance during our walk along the city walls. Seeing it from above, we were immediately struck by its raw beauty. We knew we had to find our way there, no matter what. The second tanning spot was set, and the search began.

Buža means “hole” in the old Dubrovnik dialect; some call it a “hole-in-the-wall” bar — which is quite apt, if not exactly what it is. Tucked away in a side street, behind a few restaurants, we had to go through an actual hole to reach it. The entrance looked dubious, but the narrow staircase quickly led us down and straight into rapture.

The bar isn’t anything fancy — a slightly tatty stall housing imported and local beers. Most drinks are served in plastic cups, with rickety tables and umbrellas scattered across uneven concrete levels. But with its front facing the Adriatic Sea, the stark Dalmatian hills, and the lush island of Lokrum, none of the worn furnishings seemed to matter.

Like a prepubescent teen stuck in a lift with Justin Bieber, I was bursting with excitement. I quickly settled on a flat surface before leaping headfirst into the cold, choppy water.

Experiences like this are what I will always be searching for — moments that leave you in awe of nature; that remind you how vast and astonishingly beautiful the world is, and how small and superficial our desires can be. It wasn’t just a thrill — it was deeply moving. A memory for life.

…as for the tanning? Ha. Let’s just say it has always been a rather vain attempt for me.

With love x

Alexandra Luella

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