Of Danish Kings, Crowns and Quiet Rooms

Frederiksborg Castle — a majestic palatial complex set in the quiet town of Hillerød, just north of Copenhagen.

Little did I know that, in the history of this small country of fewer than six million people, the Danish Empire was, in the 16th century, an impressive, ultra-wealthy and formidable power, with colonies spanning four continents. It was the empire’s apex — a time when Denmark held a position of great influence, commanding military strength and earning the respect of nations across the world.

The castle served as the royal residence of Christian IV — arguably the most well-known and popular king in Danish history. He is remembered as a zealous and intelligent ruler who elevated Denmark to a position of glory and prestige, leaving behind a legacy of remarkable architecture, including this castle and Copenhagen’s Old Stock Exchange, to name just a few.

However, Frederiksborg Castle was originally acquired by Christian IV’s father, Frederik II, who used it as a hunting lodge during his reign. It was only after Christian ascended the throne that the castle was transformed into an opulent Dutch Renaissance royal residence, designed and executed by a Flemish architect brought in for the task.

From afar, the castle looked like a fairytale palace floating upon a lake. But as we stepped through its regal entrance, ringed by a moat, its grandeur became instantly overwhelming — as though the King’s presence had never truly left.

Every corner caught my eye. It felt almost unjust for some to describe it as the “Danish Versailles”. The clever use of colour, the one-of-a-kind furniture, the sheer number of rooms, the life-sized portraits, the gilded frames and the exquisitely hand-painted ceilings, one after another… it was astonishing to imagine that people once lived in such excess, in such intricately elaborate surroundings.

Frederiksborg Castle has also housed the Museum of National History since 1878. Along its walls, you can see portraits of kings and queens, catch glimpses of their lavish lives and families — the nobles and the bourgeoisie — and moments from events once held in this remarkable setting, all of which have contributed to, if not shaped, the history and development of Denmark today.

This year, the Queen of Denmark, Margrethe II, turns 75. Her birthday celebrations opened with an exhibition of the dresses Her Majesty has worn throughout her reign, held in the Great Hall of Frederiksborg Castle. I felt incredibly fortunate to witness this extravaganza of style in its many forms — a royal wardrobe spanning three-quarters of a century.

For me, the highlight of it all wasn’t the exhibition; it wasn’t the Great Hall, where chandeliers once glowed and people danced and feasted upon polished marble, surrounded by magnificent mirrors and tapestries; it wasn’t the royal four-poster bed adorned with rich velvet and intricate embroidery; it wasn’t the King’s trunk, the war helmet or the heavy armour — not even the historical paintings or the extensive Baroque gardens behind the castle…

The highlight was the Chapel.

Not the “small building or room used for Christian worship” that the Oxford Dictionary would have us believe, but one of the grandest and most breathtaking chapels in Europe — where Danish royalty were crowned over the past two centuries. Its ornate décor and intricate woodwork have only grown more magnificent with time. Certainly not a space for the faint-hearted.

This castle is no longer merely a historical landmark, let alone just a tourist attraction; it is a treasure chest where a myriad of stories unfold — a place where the old and new identities of Denmark meet and quietly reveal themselves.

With love x